Secrets of Rome

These grisaille paintings are truly a sight to behold. They lie on a wall behind a remaining pillar from an old Roman odeon. Odeons are similar to modern auditoriums because they were used for singing and other forms of musical shows. Odeons were smaller versions of amphitheaters. They had a roof as well to aid the acoustics of the performers.

The painting on the wall is in a style that is meant to mimic sculpture. The cost of sculpting was significantly greater than that of painting, so artists use this technique to give the optical illusion of a three dimensional object when in reality it is flat. In my experience, grisaille paintings can be seen in many churches. The Chiesa del Gesù and the Sistine Chapel have grisaille paintings in them as well. From what I saw, they are typically on the ceilings of the churches. They are truly impressive feats of artistic ability. It almost appears as if they move when you do.

Picture of the ceiling in the Chiesa del Gesù

The paintings behind the column are located near the Piazza Navona. They are located near the south end of the piazza. There is a small alcove that is incredibly easy to miss. When I looked for it the first time, my group and I missed the turn and we spent 30-45 minutes looking for the column. When I came back later to see it again, I almost missed the turn. The entrance to the paintings was to the left and the paintings are blocked from view by a building, so it is not an obvious turn to take.

The paintings can also be reached from a small road off from a major street. The area is filled with cars, so when walking by it on the street, it looks like a small area to park your car. They are impressive, and their condition only improves as you look at it from the ground to the roof of the building.

Links:

Information on the odeons

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Odeon_(building)

Information and an example of grisaille https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/110001152

Information on the Chiesa del Gesù https://www.lonelyplanet.com/italy/rome/attractions/chiesa-del-gesu/a/poi-sig/389391/359975